Depression Cake - A Creative Solution to a Sweet Craving

By Earl Hunsinger

"Let them eat cake." These words have traditionally been attributed to Marie-Antoinette, the Queen consort of Louis XVI. Supposedly she said this after being told that the poor had no bread to eat. The words have come down to us as an example of the uncaring attitude of the French nobility, the attitude that shortly afterward resulted in the French Revolution. Many scholars believe that history has treated the queen unfairly. Such a callous attitude is uncharacteristic of what is known about her. She either didn't utter the famous phrase, or it has been misunderstood. Of course, as any cynic will tell you, history is written by the victors. One thing certainly is true: no matter how much we might wish it to be otherwise, unlike bread, cake has never been considered a necessity of life. Which brings us to the point of the story.

In times of crisis, such as wars, revolutions, and general social and economic upheavals, the good things in life, such as cake, are often the first to go. For many, this is unacceptable. With the world around you falling apart, there is something comforting, even stabilizing, about a piece of cake, or some other sweet treat.

This desire for something sweet, whether we view it as symbolic of a sense of normalcy or just as the craving for sugar, has led to the creation of some interesting recipes. The American civil war and both the world wars spurred the development of "war cakes" made with fruits and nuts. The great depression during the first part of the twentieth century likewise led housewives to become very creative in developing recipes for "depression cakes."

The challenge during these times was to create something resembling cake with the limited ingredients on hand. During the depression, certain ingredients were hard to get or were too expensive for the poor. Likewise, during the war, rationing was instituted for items deemed necessary for the war effort. In addition to gasoline, tires, shoes, silk, nylon, and so forth, certain food items were rationed. This meant that it was only possible to buy limited quantities of items that we consider staples today, such as milk, butter, sugar, and eggs. How do you make a cake without these ingredients? Where there's a sweet tooth, there's a way.

Shortening, even meat drippings, could be used in place of butter. Molasses, maple syrup, or some type of fruit could be used in place of some or all the sugar. Some of the cakes from these eras are also called boiled raisin cake, because prior to mixing them into the batter, raisins were boiled with spices to make a syrup. Because of the raisins, these cakes are usually very moist. They are also often spicy, using some combination of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice. Some use black coffee, which adds an interesting flavor.

Because fruits and nuts are often included in the ingredients, which may be more expensive than eggs, milk, and butter, these "poor man's cakes" may no longer be a thrifty way to make dessert for your family. Of course, if you're allergic to milk or eggs, depression cake may be just what you've been looking for.

If your mother or grandmother doesn't already have a recipe for depression or war cake, don't worry; the Internet contains dozens of good recipes. Not only are these cakes historically interesting, as reminders of bygone days, they are delicious. So then, don't wait for the next war or depression; try making a depression cake today. Who knows, whether you're in the middle of a revolution or just a family meal, you might just find yourself saying, "let them eat cake."